~ European adventures ~

Visiting the Kaali crater in Estonia, a gigantic lake created by a huge meteorite!
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Visiting the Kaali crater in Estonia, a gigantic lake created by a huge meteorite!

Saaremaa Island in Estonia is home to a fascinating natural wonder that’s not well known outside the country: the Kaali crater. As a digital nomad, I had the pleasure of visiting this unique group of nine meteorite craters during my time in Estonia, and it was a truly unforgettable experience!

Despite the snow-covered landscape during my visit in winter, the craters were still a sight to behold. Information boards located near the craters provided in-depth knowledge about their formation and significance, making it a great experience for those interested in geology and the history of our planet.

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Motorbikepacking expedition 2: Riding to Nova beach from Tallinn

Motorbikepacking expedition 2: Riding to Nova beach from Tallinn

My second trip this year, is to visit a public camping site on Estonia’s northern coast that I’ve found thanks to the super useful forest management agency, Riigimets’ (RMK) online map of all hiking routes, camp spots, and nature places.

I load my Yamaha Tenere up with my winter expeditions tent, some food, water, a sleeping bag, and other essential items for what I’ve started referring to as ‘motorbikepacking’ trips. As you’ve probably already guessed, Motorbikepacking trips are essentially the same regular bikepacking trips, albeit with a motorbike instead of a pedal bike. The main advantage is you can explore places that are further away, yet still a moderately low cost.

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Exploring ghostly old military tunnels in Tallinn….at night… with lanterns!
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Exploring ghostly old military tunnels in Tallinn….at night… with lanterns!

I discovered the hidden history of Tallinn's subdistrict of Astangu with a lantern hike through old Soviet military tunnels. Exploring the area once used as a military base during World War I and witnessing the remnants of abandoned U-shaped ammunition storage tunnels hand-carved from the limestone cliffs. Led by a knowledgeable guide, traversing slippery slopes, and unstable terrain for two hours with a helpful headtorch to navigate the rocky sections. This affordable and unique experience costs €20 per person and provides a fascinating insight into a district rich in intrigue and adventure!

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Crawling around inside a 90-year-old submarine called ‘Lembit’ at the Seaplanes maritime museum, Tallinn
Icebreaking technology, Soviet Union naval history, Baltic Sea maritime trade, Historic naval battles in Estonia, Seaplane Harbour museum review, Coastal defense strategies, Estonia's coastal geography, Submarine torpedoes and periscopes, Juminda tragedy remembrance, Harbour interactive exhibits, Seaplanes, Soviet Union naval warfare, Sea ports during World War II, Baltic Sea, World War II submarine technology, Estonian naval officers, Estonian shipbuilding industry, Coastal defense tactics, Estonia's role in World War II, Maritime education in Tallinn, Seaplane hangar restoration, Suur Tõll icebreaker history, Lembit submarine features, Estonian Navy in World War II, Seaplane Harbour architecture, Juminda Peninsula history, Baltic Sea icebreakers, Estonia's naval technology, Maritime disasters in Estonia, Seaplanes Maritime Museum exhibits, Naval warfare during World War II, Maritime heritage of Estonia, Royal Navy warships, Life on a submarine, German forces evacuation in Estonia, Soviet Navy during World War II, Estonia's seafaring past, Coastal defense technology, Maritime trade in Estonia, Seaplane hangar museum, Noblessner area Tallinn, Seaplanes Museum Tallinn, Baltic Sea maritime history, Suur Tõll icebreaker, Historic ships in Estonia, Juminda tragedy, Coastal defense during World War II, Lembit submarine, Estonian naval history, Tallinn maritime history, Seaplane Harbour Maritime Museum Tallinn Chris Shirley MA FRGS Icebreaking technology, Soviet Union naval history, Baltic Sea maritime trade, Historic naval battles in Estonia, Seaplane Harbour museum review, Coastal defense strategies, Estonia's coastal geography, Submarine torpedoes and periscopes, Juminda tragedy remembrance, Harbour interactive exhibits, Seaplanes, Soviet Union naval warfare, Sea ports during World War II, Baltic Sea, World War II submarine technology, Estonian naval officers, Estonian shipbuilding industry, Coastal defense tactics, Estonia's role in World War II, Maritime education in Tallinn, Seaplane hangar restoration, Suur Tõll icebreaker history, Lembit submarine features, Estonian Navy in World War II, Seaplane Harbour architecture, Juminda Peninsula history, Baltic Sea icebreakers, Estonia's naval technology, Maritime disasters in Estonia, Seaplanes Maritime Museum exhibits, Naval warfare during World War II, Maritime heritage of Estonia, Royal Navy warships, Life on a submarine, German forces evacuation in Estonia, Soviet Navy during World War II, Estonia's seafaring past, Coastal defense technology, Maritime trade in Estonia, Seaplane hangar museum, Noblessner area Tallinn, Seaplanes Museum Tallinn, Baltic Sea maritime history, Suur Tõll icebreaker, Historic ships in Estonia, Juminda tragedy, Coastal defense during World War II, Lembit submarine, Estonian naval history, Tallinn maritime history, Seaplane Harbour Maritime Museum Tallinn Chris Shirley MA FRGS

Crawling around inside a 90-year-old submarine called ‘Lembit’ at the Seaplanes maritime museum, Tallinn

If you're interested in maritime history, a visit to the Seaplane Harbour Maritime Museum in Tallinn, Estonia is a must. See historic seaplanes and submarines from World War II, as well as other historic ships and boats, including the icebreaker Suur Tõll. Interactive exhibits and animations add to the experience, making it a fascinating and sobering place to explore for all travel enthusiasts. Don't miss out on learning about Estonia's rich maritime heritage.

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A hike through the Viru bogs
Chris Shirley MA FRGS Chris Shirley MA FRGS

A hike through the Viru bogs

As a former Royal Marines officer, I have had my fair share of unpleasant experiences with bogs. However, when my partner suggested we try bog hiking in Estonia, I was initially hesitant. Nevertheless, the Viru bog hike in Lahemaa National Park turned out to be an enjoyable and serene experience. The trail is well-maintained, and we were able to observe a variety of wildlife along the way. The observation tower offers breathtaking views, and the peaceful atmosphere was a welcome break from the bustling city life.

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Bikepacking the Eurovelo 11 route across Estonia

Bikepacking the Eurovelo 11 route across Estonia

The Eurovelo cycling routes are one of Europe’s best kept secrets. Waymarked by blue signs with occasional directions to the next town, the routes criss-cross European countries.

The entire Eurovelo 11 route is c.6500 kilometres, starts at Nordkapp (the most northerly point in Europe) and finishes at the southern tip of Greece, covering 11 countries on the route. It’s apparently referred to as ‘the Beast of the East’ (according to the official website) and completing it in stages is quickly becoming a personal goal.

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Bikepacking trip 4: a one-day trip back to Tallinn from Jogeva
Chris Shirley MA FRGS Chris Shirley MA FRGS

Bikepacking trip 4: a one-day trip back to Tallinn from Jogeva

So, I've been itching to take my gravel bike out for a spin after some major upgrades. I'm planning to ride the entire Eurovelo 11 route across Estonia, but first, I needed to test my new setup. That's why I decided to go on a one-day bikepacking trip from Jogeva to Tallinn.

I added a couple of things to my ride, including a pair of aero bars from Decathlon to give me more hand positions, and Topeak Versacage gear platforms on each fork to carry my essentials. Plus, I moved my waterproof jacket to a top tube pouch for easy access and left behind the inner flysheet to save weight and space.

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Bikepacking expedition 3: first multi-day test ride for the Eurovelo 11 attempt

Bikepacking expedition 3: first multi-day test ride for the Eurovelo 11 attempt

My third bikepacking trip is a test ride for a big multi-day trip I want to do later in summer that would see me riding all the way across Estonia following the Eurovelo 11 cycling route towards the end of summer when the weather has got a little cooler. It would be 500 kilometres (c.300 miles) so I will need to be used to spending multiple days out on the road.

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Seeing the Ironman Tallinn in action!

Seeing the Ironman Tallinn in action!

I was lucky to witness Ironman Tallinn, Estonia's capital city earlier this year. The race course crisscrossed the city and even included the picturesque old town, attracting huge crowds of participants and volunteers. Having completed the UK's Ironman in Bolton, I was impressed by how picturesque the cycling and running routes were epic, going through the heart of the city, even on the cobbled streets. The finish line was at the Seaplanes maritime museum, next to the gigantic Lembit submarine – the coolest ending ever!

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Bikepacking expedition number 2: exploring an underwater prison building!

Bikepacking expedition number 2: exploring an underwater prison building!

My second bikepacking expedition to prepare me for the Silk Road Mountain race comes quite possibly as a result of playing too much Tomb Raider as a teenager when I hear about a sunken prison building in the middle of a lake that’s around 40 kilometres away from Estonia’s capital city, Tallinn that I’m exploring as a digital nomad.

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Exploring the military history of Aegna island, Estonia
digital nomad, Estonia, Digital nomad Estonia, Aegna island Chris Shirley MA FRGS digital nomad, Estonia, Digital nomad Estonia, Aegna island Chris Shirley MA FRGS

Exploring the military history of Aegna island, Estonia

In July 2022, I took a ferry to the little-known island of Aegna, located close to Tallinn, Estonia. At just 3 km², it’s a small island, however Aegna is unique are its well preserved former military sites, including artillery, coastal defensive positions, and fortification from different periods. Walking around these old military sites really felt like taking a step back in history and an unforgettable experience.

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My first bikepacking expedition - Riding to Keila waterfalls near Tallinn, Estonia

My first bikepacking expedition - Riding to Keila waterfalls near Tallinn, Estonia

In my quest to train for the Silk Road Mountain Race, I decided to squeeze in an 80-kilometre, 2-day mini bikepacking expedition during the week to test out my bike’s setup, find gaps in my preparation, build conditioning and more fitness, experience Estonia’s summer temperatures, and see what kit I might need for bigger bikepacking trips (like tackling the 500-kilometre Eurovelo 11 route that I want to do later this year).

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Taking the scenic route: my 1000-mile motorbike adventure from England to Estonia.

Taking the scenic route: my 1000-mile motorbike adventure from England to Estonia.

In summer 2022, I rode my Yamaha Ténéré motorbike over a thousand miles from my home in the UK across Europe to Estonia – one of my longest motorbike trips ever.

The endeavour was tiring, navigationally complex (for someone who’s only ever ridden a motorbike in the UK and US), yet bags of fun. I took a ferry to the Netherlands, rode to northern Germany (stopping at an old Army base I was posted to in 2007), took another ferry to Lithuania; and finally rode to Estonia’s capital city of Tallinn, via Lithuania and Latvia.

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