~ European adventures ~
Finding the Spirit of Resistance in a remote Estonian forest
My recent bikepacking expedition took me to a remote Estonian forest in search of an underground 'Forest Brothers' bunker, blending my love for adventure and resilience. The Forest Brothers, a resistance movement during and after World War II, embodied an inspiring spirit of resistance that resonates deeply with me. Cycling through the captivating forest, guided by clear signs and Google Maps, I felt like I was living out scenes from an Indiana Jones movie or a video game. Discovering the subtle yet poignant bunker, with its wooden seats and firepit, transported me to a time of hardship and bravery.
Bikepacking around Estonia’s Jurassic Park
Sensing I needed a work break, I organised my first bikepacking trip of the year in Estonia's Jurassic Park (aka the Aidu quarry). With my fully loaded Trek Marlin mountain bike, I explored rugged landscapes, deep craters, and dramatic canals. The quarry site offers some incredible views, perfect for a refreshing 24-hour screen break. A remote escape that left an unforgettable impression on me!
Exploring the incredible Haapsalu castle as a digital nomad in Estonia
As a digital nomad in Estonia, I've been exploring the country's many castles, and Haapsalu Castle is one of my favorites. This well-preserved medieval fortress is located in the coastal town of Haapsalu and offers breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. The castle grounds are beautiful, with a moat and drawbridge, and the museum inside is perfect for families. Visitors can learn about the castle's history, see a variety of artefacts, and climb to the top of the main tower for panoramic views. Guided tours are available in multiple languages, making it a great day trip from Tallinn.
Exploring the spooky tunnels hidden beneath Tallinn’s old town
I’ve been walking around Tallinn as a digital nomad for almost a year now, and had no idea there are these spooky, yet intriguing tunnels hidden underneath the old town!
The tunnels are essentially a network of underground tunnels that were built in the 17th century to help defend Tallinn's Old Town against invading armies and run underneath the city's defensive walls and connect several of the city's bastions, which are fortified structures that were used to protect the city's gates and walls.
Finding the Raketa Shipwreck
As I approached the Raketa shipwreck, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe.
The massive logistics vessel had been stranded in Estonia's Lahemaa National Park for over 50 years, its rusted exterior standing as a testament to the passage of time.
Despite its age, the shipwreck exuded a certain magnetism, drawing me closer to explore its secrets. As I learned about the ship's fascinating history, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the chance to witness such a unique landmark.
If you're looking for a truly one-of-a-kind experience, make sure to add the Raketa shipwreck to your itinerary when visiting Lahemaa National Park.
Exploring an old Soviet submarine demagnetizing base in the Lahemaa national park, Estonia
Imagine stumbling upon an abandoned Soviet submarine base while cycling through Estonia's beautiful Lahemaa National Park. That's exactly what happened to me, and I couldn't believe the well-preserved history that lay before me.
Built during World War II, the Hara Submarine Base played a crucial role in the Cold War, and today you can explore its underground facilities, learn about its fascinating past, and even stay in beautiful glamping cabins.
But beware, this captivating venue comes with its own set of dangers, so be sure to take necessary precautions before exploring its abandoned structures.
Thriving below zero: an Antarctic experience with the Frozen Dagger expedition
After designing his expedition’s branding in 2022, I travelled to Umeå, northern Sweden, to meet Sam Cox, a former Royal Marines Commando officer, and see how he is preparing for a world-record breaking expedition to the South Pole at the end of 2023.
Entitled the ‘Frozen Dagger’ project, Sam will be skiing almost 2000 kilometres in the name of biomedical sciences and human performance, whilst also fundraising for the Movember and Rock to Recovery charities. A hugely inspiring endeavour, I’m sure you’ll agree!
Visiting Kuressaare castle on Saaremaa island
One of the best parts about being a digital nomad in Estonia, is getting to work from anywhere and explore all the interesting parts of this beautiful Baltic country, and the island of Saaremaa does not disappoint on this!
If you’re knowledge of Estonia isn’t all that, Saaremaa is the largest island of over 2000, and located in the Baltic Ocean to the west of Tallinn. It is known for its natural beauty, historic landmarks, and traditional way of life. The island has a population of around 35,000 people (Not far off the population of Kendal) and covers an area of 2600 square kilometres, which is about half the size of Northumberland.
Visiting the Kaali crater in Estonia, a gigantic lake created by a huge meteorite!
Saaremaa Island in Estonia is home to a fascinating natural wonder that’s not well known outside the country: the Kaali crater. As a digital nomad, I had the pleasure of visiting this unique group of nine meteorite craters during my time in Estonia, and it was a truly unforgettable experience!
Despite the snow-covered landscape during my visit in winter, the craters were still a sight to behold. Information boards located near the craters provided in-depth knowledge about their formation and significance, making it a great experience for those interested in geology and the history of our planet.
Motorbikepacking expedition 2: Riding to Nova beach from Tallinn
My second trip this year, is to visit a public camping site on Estonia’s northern coast that I’ve found thanks to the super useful forest management agency, Riigimets’ (RMK) online map of all hiking routes, camp spots, and nature places.
I load my Yamaha Tenere up with my winter expeditions tent, some food, water, a sleeping bag, and other essential items for what I’ve started referring to as ‘motorbikepacking’ trips. As you’ve probably already guessed, Motorbikepacking trips are essentially the same regular bikepacking trips, albeit with a motorbike instead of a pedal bike. The main advantage is you can explore places that are further away, yet still a moderately low cost.
Exploring ghostly old military tunnels in Tallinn….at night… with lanterns!
I discovered the hidden history of Tallinn's subdistrict of Astangu with a lantern hike through old Soviet military tunnels. Exploring the area once used as a military base during World War I and witnessing the remnants of abandoned U-shaped ammunition storage tunnels hand-carved from the limestone cliffs. Led by a knowledgeable guide, traversing slippery slopes, and unstable terrain for two hours with a helpful headtorch to navigate the rocky sections. This affordable and unique experience costs €20 per person and provides a fascinating insight into a district rich in intrigue and adventure!
Crawling around inside a 90-year-old submarine called ‘Lembit’ at the Seaplanes maritime museum, Tallinn
If you're interested in maritime history, a visit to the Seaplane Harbour Maritime Museum in Tallinn, Estonia is a must. See historic seaplanes and submarines from World War II, as well as other historic ships and boats, including the icebreaker Suur Tõll. Interactive exhibits and animations add to the experience, making it a fascinating and sobering place to explore for all travel enthusiasts. Don't miss out on learning about Estonia's rich maritime heritage.
A hike through the Viru bogs
As a former Royal Marines officer, I have had my fair share of unpleasant experiences with bogs. However, when my partner suggested we try bog hiking in Estonia, I was initially hesitant. Nevertheless, the Viru bog hike in Lahemaa National Park turned out to be an enjoyable and serene experience. The trail is well-maintained, and we were able to observe a variety of wildlife along the way. The observation tower offers breathtaking views, and the peaceful atmosphere was a welcome break from the bustling city life.
Bikepacking the Eurovelo 11 route across Estonia
The Eurovelo cycling routes are one of Europe’s best kept secrets. Waymarked by blue signs with occasional directions to the next town, the routes criss-cross European countries.
The entire Eurovelo 11 route is c.6500 kilometres, starts at Nordkapp (the most northerly point in Europe) and finishes at the southern tip of Greece, covering 11 countries on the route. It’s apparently referred to as ‘the Beast of the East’ (according to the official website) and completing it in stages is quickly becoming a personal goal.
Bikepacking trip 4: a one-day trip back to Tallinn from Jogeva
So, I've been itching to take my gravel bike out for a spin after some major upgrades. I'm planning to ride the entire Eurovelo 11 route across Estonia, but first, I needed to test my new setup. That's why I decided to go on a one-day bikepacking trip from Jogeva to Tallinn.
I added a couple of things to my ride, including a pair of aero bars from Decathlon to give me more hand positions, and Topeak Versacage gear platforms on each fork to carry my essentials. Plus, I moved my waterproof jacket to a top tube pouch for easy access and left behind the inner flysheet to save weight and space.
Bikepacking expedition 3: first multi-day test ride for the Eurovelo 11 attempt
My third bikepacking trip is a test ride for a big multi-day trip I want to do later in summer that would see me riding all the way across Estonia following the Eurovelo 11 cycling route towards the end of summer when the weather has got a little cooler. It would be 500 kilometres (c.300 miles) so I will need to be used to spending multiple days out on the road.
Seeing the Ironman Tallinn in action!
I was lucky to witness Ironman Tallinn, Estonia's capital city earlier this year. The race course crisscrossed the city and even included the picturesque old town, attracting huge crowds of participants and volunteers. Having completed the UK's Ironman in Bolton, I was impressed by how picturesque the cycling and running routes were epic, going through the heart of the city, even on the cobbled streets. The finish line was at the Seaplanes maritime museum, next to the gigantic Lembit submarine – the coolest ending ever!
Bikepacking expedition number 2: exploring an underwater prison building!
My second bikepacking expedition to prepare me for the Silk Road Mountain race comes quite possibly as a result of playing too much Tomb Raider as a teenager when I hear about a sunken prison building in the middle of a lake that’s around 40 kilometres away from Estonia’s capital city, Tallinn that I’m exploring as a digital nomad.
Exploring the military history of Aegna island, Estonia
In July 2022, I took a ferry to the little-known island of Aegna, located close to Tallinn, Estonia. At just 3 km², it’s a small island, however Aegna is unique are its well preserved former military sites, including artillery, coastal defensive positions, and fortification from different periods. Walking around these old military sites really felt like taking a step back in history and an unforgettable experience.
My first bikepacking expedition - Riding to Keila waterfalls near Tallinn, Estonia
In my quest to train for the Silk Road Mountain Race, I decided to squeeze in an 80-kilometre, 2-day mini bikepacking expedition during the week to test out my bike’s setup, find gaps in my preparation, build conditioning and more fitness, experience Estonia’s summer temperatures, and see what kit I might need for bigger bikepacking trips (like tackling the 500-kilometre Eurovelo 11 route that I want to do later this year).