~ European adventures ~

Getting that overseas travel vibe at Tallinn botanical gardens
Chris Shirley MA FRGS Chris Shirley MA FRGS

Getting that overseas travel vibe at Tallinn botanical gardens

Having spent reduced my international travel thanks to a mountaineering accident and the pandemic, I’m desperate to see some new sights from around the world, and the Botanical Garden, situated on the outskirts of Estonia's capital city, Tallinn, delivers this in spades.

Spanning a vast area housing a diverse collection of plants from various climates worldwide, the garden showcases an extensive array of flowers, cactuses and animals, encompassing both native Estonian species and exotic plants from different continents.

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Estonian Maritime Museum in Tallinn (aka ‘Fat Margaret’ / ‘Paksmargareeta’)

Estonian Maritime Museum in Tallinn (aka ‘Fat Margaret’ / ‘Paksmargareeta’)

As a former Royal Marines officer, I was quite excited about vising the Estonian Maritime Museum (aka ‘Fat Margaret’ or ‘Paksmargareeta’ in Estonian) as it really offers a fascinating journey through maritime trade, agencies, and navigation, spanning from the Middle Ages to the era of sailing, steam, and motor ships in Tallinn’s old town.

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Exploring the Pääsküla bog trail in Tallinn

Exploring the Pääsküla bog trail in Tallinn

Pääsküla trails are a network of hiking, cycling, and skiing trails located in the Pääsküla bog area in Western Tallinn, Estonia. The trails offer visitors the opportunity to explore the natural beauty of the area and enjoy outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling, and skiing, depending on the season.

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Staying at a beautiful Summerhouse in Leesi, Lahemaa national park
Chris Shirley MA FRGS Chris Shirley MA FRGS

Staying at a beautiful Summerhouse in Leesi, Lahemaa national park

In summer 2023, I got to visit and stay in a beautiful private summer house in Leesi, to explore the Lahemaa National Park, a big and diverse national park located in northern Estonia and covering an area of approximately 725 square kilometres (280 square miles). Lahemaa, which translates to "Land of Bays," gets its name from the numerous bays and peninsulas that adorn the area's coastline along the Gulf of Finland.

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One Sixty Smokehouse, an epic motorbike-themed restaurant in Tallinn

One Sixty Smokehouse, an epic motorbike-themed restaurant in Tallinn

A fantastically cool restaurant that’s part of the Renard Speed Shop, 160 smokehouse is run by head chef, Andrei, and located in the ultra-cool Telliskivi creative quarter. It serves your favourite guilty pleasures, such as epic burgers, pulled pork tacos, hot dogs, and barbeque ribs, however also much more interesting fare such as soft shell crab burgers, and deserts made to look like the soap bars in Fight Club!

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Saku mountain biking (near Tallinn)
Chris Shirley MA FRGS Chris Shirley MA FRGS

Saku mountain biking (near Tallinn)

The Saku forest offers a fantastic opportunity for active outdoor activities! Whether you enjoy hiking or skiing, you'll find a variety of well-maintained trails to explore. The trails range from 2 km to 7 km in length, providing options for different levels of difficulty. Additionally, there is a 2.7 km illuminated trail, allowing you to enjoy the forest even after sunset.

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Visiting Tallinn boat show 2023

Visiting Tallinn boat show 2023

The Tallinn boat and maritime show is an annual event held in the Tallinn fairs centre (aka Eesti Näituste messikeskus), in the capital city of Estonia. The event is focused on showcasing boats, yachts, and other maritime equipment, as well as providing a platform for businesses and individuals to connect with each other in the maritime industry.

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Seeing BASE jumpers backflip off Tallinn TV tower (aka Teletorn)

Seeing BASE jumpers backflip off Tallinn TV tower (aka Teletorn)

One of the things I first noticed when visiting Tallinn was the tall, pointy tower protruding from the beautiful green skyline, with what looked like a flying saucer built into it.

The Tallinn TV tower (aka the Teletorn) is a beautiful 170-metre mast located near Pirita beach and close to some of Tallinn’s wonderful hiking /biking / ski trails.

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Navigating virtual worlds at the Proto Innovation Museum in Tallinn

Navigating virtual worlds at the Proto Innovation Museum in Tallinn

In all the guides I’d read and many trips to super cool Noblessnor quarter, I finally got an opportunity to visit the Proto innovation museum, a highly interactive innovation museum that is a great place to take your family or friends.

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Seeing the stunning Jägala Waterfalls near Tallinn

Seeing the stunning Jägala Waterfalls near Tallinn

On my motorbikepcking trip to Juminda peninsula to learn more about the maritime disaster, I stopped to see the Jägala Waterfall, another stunning natural attraction located near Tallinn, just like the Keila waterfalls (albeit in the other direction).

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Exploring Alatskivi castle near Tartu

Exploring Alatskivi castle near Tartu

In May 2023, I had the pleasure of visiting Alatskivi Castle, a stunning historic landmark located in the picturesque town of Alatskivi, in the East of Estonia. This impressive building can be found near the shores of Lake Peipus, just a short bus ride from Tartu, Estonia's second-largest city. It's a destination that has earned its reputation as one of Estonia's top tourist attractions thanks to its Disney-esque appearance!

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The Kõkõva bikepacking race, 800 kilometres across Estonia

The Kõkõva bikepacking race, 800 kilometres across Estonia

Entering an 800-kilometre bikepacking race isn’t something I think will come easily. It’s hard to explain why I have a feeling reminiscent of the final exercise of commando officer training - like you know you’re in for some tough times, yet excited to put yourself into furnace and get blasted to see what you’re made of.

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Finding the Spirit of Resistance in a remote Estonian forest

Finding the Spirit of Resistance in a remote Estonian forest

My recent bikepacking expedition took me to a remote Estonian forest in search of an underground 'Forest Brothers' bunker, blending my love for adventure and resilience. The Forest Brothers, a resistance movement during and after World War II, embodied an inspiring spirit of resistance that resonates deeply with me. Cycling through the captivating forest, guided by clear signs and Google Maps, I felt like I was living out scenes from an Indiana Jones movie or a video game. Discovering the subtle yet poignant bunker, with its wooden seats and firepit, transported me to a time of hardship and bravery.

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Bikepacking around Estonia’s Jurassic Park  

Bikepacking around Estonia’s Jurassic Park  

Sensing I needed a work break, I organised my first bikepacking trip of the year in Estonia's Jurassic Park (aka the Aidu quarry). With my fully loaded Trek Marlin mountain bike, I explored rugged landscapes, deep craters, and dramatic canals. The quarry site offers some incredible views, perfect for a refreshing 24-hour screen break. A remote escape that left an unforgettable impression on me!

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Exploring the incredible Haapsalu castle as a digital nomad in Estonia
europe, estonia, castle Chris Shirley MA FRGS europe, estonia, castle Chris Shirley MA FRGS

Exploring the incredible Haapsalu castle as a digital nomad in Estonia

As a digital nomad in Estonia, I've been exploring the country's many castles, and Haapsalu Castle is one of my favorites. This well-preserved medieval fortress is located in the coastal town of Haapsalu and offers breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. The castle grounds are beautiful, with a moat and drawbridge, and the museum inside is perfect for families. Visitors can learn about the castle's history, see a variety of artefacts, and climb to the top of the main tower for panoramic views. Guided tours are available in multiple languages, making it a great day trip from Tallinn.

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Exploring the spooky tunnels hidden beneath Tallinn’s old town

Exploring the spooky tunnels hidden beneath Tallinn’s old town

I’ve been walking around Tallinn as a digital nomad for almost a year now, and had no idea there are these spooky, yet intriguing tunnels hidden underneath the old town!

The tunnels are essentially a network of underground tunnels that were built in the 17th century to help defend Tallinn's Old Town against invading armies and run underneath the city's defensive walls and connect several of the city's bastions, which are fortified structures that were used to protect the city's gates and walls.

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Finding the Raketa Shipwreck
estonia, europe Chris Shirley MA FRGS estonia, europe Chris Shirley MA FRGS

Finding the Raketa Shipwreck

As I approached the Raketa shipwreck, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe.

The massive logistics vessel had been stranded in Estonia's Lahemaa National Park for over 50 years, its rusted exterior standing as a testament to the passage of time.

Despite its age, the shipwreck exuded a certain magnetism, drawing me closer to explore its secrets. As I learned about the ship's fascinating history, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the chance to witness such a unique landmark.

If you're looking for a truly one-of-a-kind experience, make sure to add the Raketa shipwreck to your itinerary when visiting Lahemaa National Park.

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Exploring an old Soviet submarine demagnetizing base in the Lahemaa national park, Estonia

Exploring an old Soviet submarine demagnetizing base in the Lahemaa national park, Estonia

Imagine stumbling upon an abandoned Soviet submarine base while cycling through Estonia's beautiful Lahemaa National Park. That's exactly what happened to me, and I couldn't believe the well-preserved history that lay before me.

Built during World War II, the Hara Submarine Base played a crucial role in the Cold War, and today you can explore its underground facilities, learn about its fascinating past, and even stay in beautiful glamping cabins.

But beware, this captivating venue comes with its own set of dangers, so be sure to take necessary precautions before exploring its abandoned structures.

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Thriving below zero: an Antarctic experience with the Frozen Dagger expedition

Thriving below zero: an Antarctic experience with the Frozen Dagger expedition

After designing his expedition’s branding in 2022, I travelled to Umeå, northern Sweden, to meet Sam Cox, a former Royal Marines Commando officer, and see how he is preparing for a world-record breaking expedition to the South Pole at the end of 2023.

 Entitled the ‘Frozen Dagger’ project, Sam will be skiing almost 2000 kilometres in the name of biomedical sciences and human performance, whilst also fundraising for the Movember and Rock to Recovery charities. A hugely inspiring endeavour, I’m sure you’ll agree!

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Visiting Kuressaare castle on Saaremaa island
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Visiting Kuressaare castle on Saaremaa island

One of the best parts about being a digital nomad in Estonia, is getting to work from anywhere and explore all the interesting parts of this beautiful Baltic country, and the island of Saaremaa does not disappoint on this!

If you’re knowledge of Estonia isn’t all that, Saaremaa is the largest island of over 2000, and located in the Baltic Ocean to the west of Tallinn. It is known for its natural beauty, historic landmarks, and traditional way of life. The island has a population of around 35,000 people (Not far off the population of Kendal) and covers an area of 2600 square kilometres, which is about half the size of Northumberland.

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